June 11, 2006
Another short swim to start the day and off to town to meet Salah who took us to the Acomat water fall and pool. We met him at the local boulangerie for a coffee and pattiserie then off on a white knuckle ride to his house about 4 miles south of Deshaises in a town called Pointe Noir. We dropped off his 3 yr old son, Gabriel, then another 3 miles or so south to the Acomat.
The Acomat is an area featuring a waterfall of minor proportions that spills into a bluish green lake about 40 feet in diameter. It is 8-12 feet deep and is surrounded by large boulders and climbable rock precipices. We spent about 1.5 hours there jumping off the various ledges and climbing up the 20 ft sloping falls ending with a picnic of BBQ chicken from the night before. The rock strewn river below this area is beautiful and fun to hop from rock to rock under a canopy of large and varied leafed trees.
Salah returned to pick us up early because it looked like rain and he said the falls can become dangerous with the sudden increase in water flow. He then graciously drove us to the Jardines des Botanical only 2 kilometers south of Deshaises. This guy was like our personal chauffeur and very happy and excited to have made new friends and show us places very few tourists visit. The Gardens were spectacular, very manicured and full of hundreds of varieties of fauna, flora and cacti, as well as parrots, butterflies, goats and other kid friendly petting animals. The entry fee was 13 euros and it took about an hour to circumnavigate the wide path. We took many photos and enjoyed the serenity and beauty everywhere we looked.
We finished at the snack café with a nice water vista and had a crepe madras and a salad nicoise with two beers called Madras. On the way out, the two female clerks called me over to the counter and handed me a pack of candy telling me it was a gift from them, all in French, so they may have said something more, but I will never know.
After a brief stop in the well stocked and reasonably priced gift shop (you must pass through this in order to leave the park) where we bought Salah’s wife and child gifts for when we see them tonight, we walked the 1.2 miles down hill to the harbor and returned to the boat. It was Sunday and everything was closed, the last at 1 PM.
Salah then picked us up in town at 7PM and we drove the 4 miles again to his house with his business partner and local legend, Richard, a 60 yr old jack of all trades. His primary occupation, besides owning a two story apartment on the harbor as well as another building across the street from it, was in repairing boat engines. In fact, for 12 years he provided his services for Club Med in about a dozen places throughout the world before returning to Deshaises 12 years ago. Missing most of his teeth and sporting a leathery dark tan, Richard has written cruising guides and other books, apparently, for the German market.
We arrived after 7PM and presented our gifts to Fabienne, his wife and Gabriel. We also brought two bottles of California wine, the first American wine the Tunisian Salah had every tried. For dinner, we had some remarkable BBQ pork ribs and some medium sized shrimp. Salah said the marinade for the ribs was obtained from an island just south of Madagascar where he and his Vietnamese, Russian, Algerian and French bred wife lived for four years. He had begged the chef for four years before obtaining the recipe and would not, until I know him for four years, reveal the secret to me until then.{mosimage}
For dessert we had some very nice 20 year old reserve Guadeloupean rhum I think called Dousourian with sliced ripe pineapple mangos. Some group photos and friendly goodbyes and back to the boat with a full stomach and sleepy eyes.
June 12, 2006
Today we plan on making it to the Isle des Saintes, about 34 miles south. But first we went ashore for provisions to the Spar Market, a fairly well stocked French type food store. We purchased Pate, Brie, a Baguette, water, candy bars (a Nestle Lion that was fantastic), ice and four bottles of French Bordeaux, each under $12, one from 2000 and 1998. The 98 was a Chateaux de Laborde which we had for dinner and was very nice. The 00 is a Chateau Tour de Calens Graves Bordeaux. Salah had suggested we try the 2003 Chateau Vignol so I bought two bottles at $8 each.
We left at 9:15 AM and motored to Pigeon Island, about 8 miles south. There we picked up one of the two yellow moorings, the other occupied by a charter cat. Our mooring was only about 25 yards from the island which is known for being the Jacques Cousteau Marine and Dive Park. What a wonderful snorkeling spot! The steep wall was full of colorful and unusual sea life and the deep, 35-50 foot, bottom showcased many schools and varieties of fish. For fun I free dove to the bottom in 50 feet to see if I could still do it! Yes, I can. We then took the dinghy around to the south side where the depth became 15-20 feet and we saw a flounder type fish that blended with the top of coral heads though it had a purplish blue tint, a very unique fish with two unevenly placed eyes on the top side.
We left Pigeon Island, after a pate and brie snack, about 12:45 PM and motored with the main up south towards Isles des Saintes as the wind was light and seas flat. As we approached the light house on the south tip of Basse Terre, the wind grew in velocity and we noticed two windsurfers darting back and forth. We cut the corner as close as we could and set course for The Saintes, correcting for wind and current, at 125 degrees. The anemometer quickly rose to a steady 27-29 kts as we sloshed our way south east in 3-5 foot swells.
Even with the 10 degree adjustment, by the time we crossed the six mile channel, we were still two miles west of our target of Terre de Haut. So we had to motor straight up the south side of the channel in order to avoid crashing into Le Pate, a large rock just off of the uninhabited west island called Terre de Bas. Arriving about 5:30PM I noticed most anchorages had wildly rocking boats so I opted for the most northern option between the Hotel Canoan and the Restaurant La Saladarie. Knowing that the weather forecast for tomorrow called for increased wind and rain, I dropped the hook in 30 feet of water and let out all of our chain, I believe to be 165 feet. I dove the anchor to make sure it was set and checked on our neighbor’s, which was not, so they re-set theirs, thanking me profusely.
Barbeque steaks and a bottle of wine on board under a full moon ended the tiring day. About 2AM I awoke to close the hatches as the rain began its two day deluge.
June 13, 2006
It is raining steady and occasionally hard today, so I am glad this was a planned no sailing day, though exploring the island may be problematic due to the weather. We stayed aboard napping and reading novels until there was a slight break in the constant rain about 12:30PM. The boat leaked some from a hatch or two but not over any bunks.We took the water logged dinghy to town. Walking in the light rain we saw many statutes dedicated to the seamen and fishermen of the village. The town was fairly deserted due to it being June and the rain and all the restaurants had closed except one.
A cute place, they offered some local specialties so we tried the Beef Carpachio, Fish Crepes that were rolled up like egg rolls, and a chicken Donkite, a puff pastry calzone shaped fried item that was tasty and fun to eat. A couple of mini carafes of wine from a box and we waited out the heavy downpour that began as we took our seats. Finally about 4PM we went back to the boat for a nap.
But when we got back, the wind had shifted 180 degrees to the SW and the boat was now about 35 feet from shore, narrowly missing the local skiffs anchored there. Despite the close proximity, the depth was still 20 feet. Nevertheless, I was uncomfortable with our position so we pulled up the anchor and after the second attempt in 40 feet of water, set it again. Now we had to wait to see how the boat would sit when the wind went back to the ESE.
While ashore, I met the couple in the boat next to ours who had opted for a hotel room in lieu of waiting out the rain in their 36 footer. Their names were Hank, 63, and Andrea, 55, and I invited them to join us for cocktails on board and dinner ashore which they accepted. Hank also gave me the retaining nut for the BBQ from his boat since I had just dropped ours while cleaning it out, and they didn’t need it since they ate all their dinners ashore.
It turned out that they had met just two months ago through Match.com and that he had already proposed and was waiting for her reply. She lived in San Diego and he lived in Connecticut and they were on a 5 day sail out of Guadeloupe with Sunsail. Hank was a money manager and Andrea a psychologist. Just another unique couple cruising or living in the Caribbean. We had a nice, but not spectacular dinner at Le Genois, the only place open, and then back to the boat to sleep off the wine and rum from the evening.
June 14, 2006
After a long rainy day and night, the sky was much clearer and I was hoping for a return to moderate winds and seas. It was not to be as we rounded Pain de Sucre with full main and 100% jib then split the two southern Les Saintes Islands and were hit by a 30 knot gust. The wind and waves were awesome, pounding us relentlessly from the ESE as we tried to hold a course of 160 degrees.
The 20 mile ride to Prince Rupert Bay in Dominica now looked like work instead of play. To make things more comfortable, I reefed the jib to 80% and the main to 65% as the current and 5-8 foot swells pushed us west. According to the GPS, we had hit 7.8 knots leaving the Saintes but now we were averaging a steady 6+ knots and the ride was much more smooth and in rhythm. Occasionally a huge wave would break into the cockpit, soaking our paperbacks, but we managed to arrive around 1:30 PM even though we were pushed a couple miles west of our original course by the current.
{mosimage}About 3 miles out, one of the River Guides, Albert, came over to the boat to solicit our business. I had to admire the initiative so we agreed to be picked up at 4 PM for the $15 per person cruise ¾ mile up the Indian River. Later, he also arranged an all day, all island taxi for the next day at $140 with Alexis and took a load of my laundry, the first of the trip, for $15. We cleared customs at the commercial dock, then a quick lunch on our way to the north end of the bay to anchor in 12 feet of water in front of Big Pappa’s Sports Bar and Restaurant. Two kids, Danny and Junior, came out on old windsurfer boards to peddle bananas and mangoes and I bought 8 bananas and 7 small mangoes for $2.
Albert came by just after 4PM and started chastising Danny, who was still hanging around, as being one of the crooks who had been caught many times stealing from the boats. We didn’t want to be in the middle of a local pissing match so we hurried Albert along to start the river tour. Several other boats were enjoying the river tour which, according to Albert, was Johnny Dep’s and Orlando Bloom’s favorite part of Dominica while filming the sequel to the Pirates of the Caribbean there.
The river features primarily Blood Wood trees, scores of crabs, an iguana or two in the treetops, and lots of coconut, mango and other indigenous trees and plants covering our brown liquid path. While beautiful and well narrated by Albert, a certified guide, it was not the most amazing scenery or experience I had ever had. We yawned many times, it was a wild sail after all, and returned to the boat ready for a nap.
June 15, 2006
What a glorious day! A swim around the boat, a shower and off to see the island, after a stop in immigration, in a Toyota Four Runner with our guide Jeffrey. For $150 the drivers take you out for 7-8 hours stopping for snacks, lunch and at all the best spots to view and/or swim. We left at 11 AM from Portsmouth and worked our way north through winding roads lined with lemon grass plants, banana farms and 50 foot coconut palms. Ginger and heliconia plants also adorned the way as the scenery was simply breathtaking.
We stopped at the Seaside Tavern in Balibou Bay and had a beer with Winston the owner enjoying the view from his deck perched over the beach. The sea was accented by large rock formations that reminded me of the Northern California or Oregon coast but with clear blue water and palm trees along the shore. We took numerous photos and wondered what else could top this environment.
Driving East through Hampstead, home of a soon to be built mega resort, we arrived in Calibishie, the seaside town with a few villas and small hotels. One, the Calibishie Lodges, was so cute we had to stop and inquire about the area regarding real estate and lifestyle. The Belgian owners were very helpful and encouraging.
The next stop was called Red Rock, and which totally blew us away. With rolling red clay volcanic dunes and cliffs, the juxtaposition of smooth curved red dirt scratched with scores of large plant filled cracks against the blue green watery background with hard rock formations and crashing waves was among the most beautiful sights I had ever seen. Karen loved it so much she ran immediately to the breaking sea edge and climbed into a crevasse to get a better look. Five seconds later, a huge wave broke over her drenching her with warm salt water and putting a huge smile on her face.
We were awed beyond words and didn’t want to leave. But off to the Carib Territory, passing the Melville Hall airport and curving around spectacular Pagua Bay, where we purchased local souveniers from three sisters who were part of a 14 child family. The original Native Caribbean, Caribs were once a war like culture that battled with European settlers for almost two hundred years before migrating to other American areas. With Asian facial features but with brown skin, they still live in a not much more than primitive state in many locations including Dominica.
Our next stop was the famous Emerald Pool higher in the mountains with a 35 foot water fall ending into a four foot deep pool about 50 feet in diameter. It was possible to climb the rocks under the falls and let the water pound on our unused muscles, or slip behind them for a through the curtain look out at the pool. The water was a bit on the chilly side but the beauty was incredible.
A long windy ride back to Portsmouth and we returned to the boat. There we opened the 2000 Graves and it was excellent. Then off to the Purple Turtle Restaurant for a dinner of lobster, though they served us six crayfish instead, and chicken. Their bug zappers were very effective as thousands of bugs covered the bar and areas around the tables on the floor. Not very appetizing but the food was pretty good. We watched the Heat lead the Mavericks at the half in game four of the NBA finals on their bar TV, (not a big screen like the guide said), then back to the boat for a nightcap and bed.
One dish I wanted to try was what the locals call Mountain Chicken, which is actually large frogs. No one had them available though it was on almost all of their menus.
June 16, 2006
Today was Karen’s last day and we started by having a swim off the stern of the boat. Then into shore where we thought we would be picked up at 10:30 AM so we could see some land and get her to the airport by 1 PM. But the driver didn’t show so we had her picked up at noon instead, but he didn’t show either until we called to remind him. Once Karen left, with a tear in her eye and over 200 photos to remind her of the colorful week she just enjoyed, I walked into town.{mosimage}
My search was for shaving cream as I had been growing my facial hair for 20 days and thought it would be a good idea to start fresh and cut the scraggily thing off. Finally, I found the only store in town with a can of Old Spice Endurance. At 3 PM, Jeffrey picked me up and took me to several beautiful locations just north of Prince Rupert Bay where land was available and just to show me neighborhoods that might be of interest to me.
During the drive, we met an elderly man in a speedo named Cleve Richardson who owned many acres with spectacular views and he passed along my contact info to his son who was interested in selling less than an acre. I got to know the various areas where large modern homes were being built among the shacks and wooden patch worked homes on stilts that populated the area and country. A certain gentrification was occurring to the countryside, though much slower than any other island I had been too so far.
Jeffrey then drove me back to Big Pappa’s so I could wait for Jill to arrive, which she did at 5:30 PM. We had a quick drink then took her to the boat. She was anxious to swim so we jumped in the dinghy and sped (we had a 10HP outboard) to the west point of the Cabrits where we could see the sunset while swimming in the clear jade green water.We had dinner at Blue Bay, goat stew and a pork chop which were both very good, then back to the boat to relax and get Jill acclimated to the dark sky full of bright stars and constellations.