June 18, 2006
We were abeam of the north tip of Dominica at 10AM and caught the 20+ kt SE winds as expected. Flying along at 7+ knots, we were no more than two miles north when Jill asked if would be possible to see any whales here. Since Dominica is a whale watching destination, I replied, only if you really want to. No kidding, within 5 minutes later, Jill cries out, look, a whale, and sure enough there were two, about 15 feet long, slowly moving from our left on an intersecting course.
At first I thought they were dolphins and expected them to play in our wake but they were moving too slowly and we zipped by as the 5 foot swells were making for excellent sailing and fast time. In retrospect, I should have slowed the boat to see if they would hang out for awhile.
We arrived in the Saintes at 12:30PM, traversing the 20 mile channel at an7.5 kt average with a 65% main and a 75% jib. Instead of anchoring in front of the town like last time, we dropped the hook in 32 feet of water at Pain de Sucre, a formidable rock outcropping with a cute palm lined beach. After a brief bite to eat, we went snorkeling and were rewarded with some truly remarkable sights. The shore was teeming with colorful sea life, and we spotted an eel, squid, flounder, French Angelfish, trumpet fish and several schools of various size fish. Once, I saw three ascending size schools in a pursuit race drafting behind the one in front and zig zagging between the coral crevasses and various flora. Jill swam through a school of small fish and they could be seen jumping out of the water over her body. There were several types of sea anemones that swayed their pompom like appendages in the current but would retreat in unison in a blink when disturbed by the touch of my finger. All of this in less than 20 feet of water.
We hung out on the beach for awhile then rode the dinghy the mile into town to provision the boat. Most everything was closed, being Sunday afternoon, but the Huit a 8 was open and we bought some things to hold us over until we got to Deshaises or Antigua for a proper re stocking. There was no fresh meat on the island so we got frozen beef brochettes, chicken and hot dogs. Also, some juices, pate, lots of candy bars and some veggies then back to the boat. There was no ice available; I have not had ice on board since arriving in Dominica 5 days earlier. A snack of pate and cheese and wine and we went to sleep, literally asleep just after 8PM.
June 19, 2006
We couldn’t pass up another snorkel before leaving and it was magnificent. Even though it was raining off and on, we got in about 40 minutes of exploration before leaving at 9:50AM. The winds were 20+ kts again and with a full main, a 65% jib and a broad reach, we passed the Guadeloupe lighthouse, 8 miles away, exactly 1 hour later. What a great sail, surfing waves and driving ahead of the wind. Rounding the point, the waves flattened out but the wind sustained for almost another hour as we headed for Anse de Barc and I pulled in the jib and we rode peacefully yet swiftly up the west coast enjoying the solitude and smooth sailing.
Arriving at Anse de Barc around 1PM, I dropped the anchor in about 35 feet of water twice but each time the hook found another much larger (one was 5 feet tall) anchor. How do I know this? Because I swam the chain down to the hook in the murky water and had to pick it up both times and try to reset it by hand in the hard sand. We barbequed the beef brochettes and finished the wine from the night before in the steady rain, then left about 3PM for Pigeon Island to spend the night at the town of Pigeon, arriving at 4PM.
There was a break in the rain so we took the dinghy out to Pigeon Island for a snorkel and were the only ones there. I got a ring of stings by a ribbon jelly fish around my left bicep, so you know it had to be a big one to manage that. We also saw an olive green with white markings sea snake, about 3 feet long, with a strange head reminiscent of an uncircumcised penis.
We then took the dinghy into the small town where we met Deborah, a very sexy buxom Gaudeloupean French girl who works at the dive shop on the far right. She helped us with a few questions about the place, most that were just to keep her talking. After a drink in the rain at the loud and unkept beach bar we went back to the boat and made spaghetti with Jill’s home made sauce and a bottle of Pinot Noir.
June 20, 2006
Waking up late, we went for a snorkel in the Pigeon Harbor and Jill had trouble with her mask and struggled back to the boat while I was bailing the dinghy to prepare for her rescue. It was still raining intermittently so we motored the ¾ mile to Pigeon Island to escape the high land mass and grabbed a mooring about noon. The current was a bit strong but next to the island it was mellow and we saw many gorgeous fish including an octopus that we followed for a few minutes and a school of mini squid. The water is so icy blue with schools of various sizes playing together that you become mesmerized with all of the activity.
Back on board we had a nice ham, pate, camembert and Swiss cheese lunch then I took a short nap. We fed some ham and bread to the fish off our stern and finally enjoyed some sun as the rain did not extend out that far west. One more short snorkel and off we went for a leisurely sail up the coast to Deshaises with full main and 120 jib. I engaged Otto the Autopilot for most of the trip as the occasional S to SE wind moved us the 8 miles in just over 2 hours. We spent a great deal of the time on the bow as the boat gently rode over the wave less ocean.
We anchored in the same NE spot of Deshaises then into town for another provision run. Ice, good French wine for $5-10 per bottle and more pate, cheese, water and tomatoes found their way on board. I called Salah and we met him briefly before inviting him to join us later for dinner but he never showed. We had a very nice meal, Jill had steak, I had a whole fish, a Bonita and a nice bottle of wine. We went to bed about 10:30PM and the rooster was still following me as I could hear him even at that hour.
June 21, 2006
We awoke at 7 AM and eventually left the harbor at 8AM. When Jill first arrived, I told her that I always left the lid a bit open on the cooler when there was no ice in it to prevent mildew and smells. Well, she took this literally even after we put a bag of ice in the night before so it had all melted. So in went another bag of ice and off we went.
The wind had been very consistent from the ESE, or about 125 degrees, for 25 days so far, but today it decided to go due East. Instead of a beam reach, we had 18 to 20 knots of wind and sailed a very fast and comfortable 60 to 70 degree reach for 46 miles from Deshaises to Green Island, Antigua in 7.5 hours, averaging just over 6 knots. I thought of my father, who passed away last year, often during this trip, and recalled our times sailing and working on his and our various boats together. I also thought of my dog Cutter, who was put down the week before I left on this trip, and the nearly 15 years we had together. I thought how wonderful it would be if they were both able to be here with me.
I had last been to Green Island in 1981 so this was a nice treat to re visit a place I remembered to be idyllic and removed from it all. Sure enough, we anchored in the West Bay, with a view across the Atlantic protected by a long reef and were the only boat within eye sight. Nonsuch Bay, covering the vast west portion of our viewing area, was uninhabited as well. We anchored in 15 feet on a sandy bottom and went for a swim and walk to the Atlantic side of the island.
Too beat to cook, we had pate, cheese, tomatoes and tried the $5 wine for dinner. There was no sunset as a cloud cover dominated the western skyline but the breeze kept us cool and nightfall set in with a peaceful and content darkness.
June 22, 2006
Today was a nice sunny day that started for me with a 30 minute swim from West Bay to Bird Island, a half mile each way. There were no birds on Bird Island. But the view out to sea from behind the protecting reef was awesome. Then Jill and I took the dinghy around to Ricketts Bay where we anchored and snorkeled the reef, both on the inside and outside portions. It was average snorkeling, nothing unusual, but nice to be the only ones around, until two charter cats pulled in and unloaded their day cargo into the water. We relaxed on the beach for awhile then back to the boat to BBQ hot dogs. Jill popped her bottle of champagne and we read a little. A charter cat anchored behind us breaking the solitude of the location so we decided to move.
About 3 PM we got the itch to explore the rest of Nonsuch Bay so up went the anchor and we avoided the slightly submerged and large Mid Reefs and found our way past the Mill Reef Club and Harmony Hall into Ayers Creek, a shallow, 6-12 foot area two miles west of Green Island where we anchored in 8 feet of very muddy bottom. I once again dove the anchor and found it to be upside down so I set it by hand and dug it in good.
Tomorrow, my best pal Keith and his wife Laurie and their twin 15 year olds, Cody and Remy, arrive to finish off my last 12 days. It will be an interesting dynamic with six people on board, starting with the sleeping arrangements and provisioning. I invited them to join me in part to celebrate Keith’s 50th Birthday so I hope they are ready to party and have a good time!!
June 23, 2006
We left Ayer’s Creek about 8:15AM and had a mellow pleasant broad reach to English Harbor in lighter, 12-14 kt E winds, more like what I had been expecting all along. We barely managed 5 kts with full main and jib in the somewhat rolly seas. It was time to top off tanks in preparation for Keith’s brood so a port side tie up at the Antigua Slipway was next.
I hosed the boat down and put in only 15 gallons of diesel despite 47 hours of engine use since the last top off June 7. We then set the hook in the outer harbor on the second try about 1PM.
Off to customs and the port authority, located side by side, and after the $28 port fees; $4 per person, $1 per person garbage fee, $.04/ft boat fee and a $16 entry fee, the customs agent said I had to return to get my clearance when the proper agent returned. He said I could return tomorrow when I could also get my outbound clearance for the 25th.
Jill and I settled in at the Admiral’s Inn to have lunch and wait for Keith and they finally arrived about 3PM. I shuttled the baggage out to the boat, made sleeping arrangements and while Keith and the kids snorkeled, Laurie and I went provisioning at the Dockside Market. Shopping for kids was not my usual thing so I deferred to Laurie while I selected the chicken, burgers and hot dogs. Laurie picked up the tab and we limited heavy things since their free delivery service was suspended due to low season. It rained hard while at the market, and a nice English couple gave us a ride back to the dinghy as we were burdened with 8 bags of goods.
While enjoying a cocktail in the cockpit, I went over the rules of the boat (Rule No. 1, the captain is always right, Rule No. 2, there is no Rule No. 2.) and showed all how to use the head, navigation area, dinghy and hatches. . Some of my rules for smooth sailing include: all hair brushing on the stern platform only, always rinse saltwater off before going below, always ask if others want something out of either the frig or ice chest before opening, nothing goes in toilets unless it passed through your body first, crush cans and packages before putting in garbage, do not leave personal items scattered about, always close bottles and containers whether at anchor or at sea, etc.
We then went to shore and had a very nice dinner at Life restaurant on the water watching the kids nod off since they had all woke up at 3AM to start their travels. We finally figured out the cushion arrangement for the main salon bed and everyone was out fast about 9:30PM. During my midnight pee, I noticed Keith and Laurie had moved on deck to sleep in the cockpit.